Le Marche is a truly diverse region full of surprises, and Christmas in Le Marche is no different, given its varied dialects, landscapes, history and heritage.
Obviously, its proximity to both the coast and to the mountains and hills makes local culinary traditions diverse, varying according to where you find yourself, but always with a common underlying philosophy. So what do people eat in Le Marche, from north to south, during the Christmas holidays? Let’s takes a closer look.
24th December: Only Fish On Christmas Eve!
The Adriatic Sea borders the entire region from north to south. Those living inland may well have to resort to driving and exercise a bit of patience to reach the coast, but the journey is never a long one and always worth the effort. In general, the Marche region has a very strong peasant farming tradition, resulting in rich local dishes of meat, cheese and vegetables; that said, the coast is still home to a large number of fishing boats that continue with this tradition, perfect for Christmas Eve, the day on which no meat should be eaten, according to the Catholic Church.
So, for dinner on the 24th of December you can certainly find simple but tasty first courses on the menu, such as spaghetti with local clams or tagliatelle or tagliolini with seafood. If this is the case, it’ll be the second course that’s the real focus. While in the provinces of Pesaro Urbino and Ascoli Piceno there is a preference for the traditional soup of fish and tomatoes, the “brodetto”, in the other provinces stockfish “all’anconetana” is very popular, an ancient recipe in which air-dried cod is the protagonist together with tomatoes and potatoes. In general, however, oven-baked salt cod is widespread throughout the region.
25th of December: A Christmas-Day Menu in Le Marche
Christmas lunch is a truly magical occasion for families throughout the region: work stops, people gather together in their grandparents’ and parents’ homes, and everyone enjoys time together at a beautifully prepared table. Food is a fundamental part of life for the people of Le Marche, and at these times it is all the more so.
In the days leading up to the main event on the 25th of December, people get together and prepare fresh pasta dishes that will make up the menu. You’ll always find cappelletti in broth, which must be made of thinly-rolled pasta and have a rich filling of mixed meat, cooked and served in capon or chicken broth. In the north of the region they are sometimes replaced by passatelli in broth – pasta made with eggs, breadcrumbs, Parmesan cheese, lemon and nutmeg.
Another first course, which everyone enjoys, is vincisgrassi: hearty lasagne made with meat sauce and béchamel, or with mushrooms and truffles in the vegetarian version.
The main courses, on the other hand, highlight the differences between the areas: around Pesaro the traditional dish is pasticciata con erba – veal cooked slowly in a sauce made with extra virgin olive oil, red wine, broth, a touch of tomato and spices and accompanied by traditional garden vegetables such as chard, spinach or pimpinella.
Widespread from north to south is roast meat, served with potatoes, and “il lesso”, the boiled chicken previously used for stock. Finally, fried food is common in the Piceno area: deep-fried olives all’ascolana, lamb chops and also vegetables.
Desserts are also unique: in the Fermo area, “Lu serpe” is a traditional, old-fashioned cake made with shortcrust pastry formed into the shape of a snake, with a filling of almonds and dark chocolate with orange and rum. Around Cingoli and Apiro, in the province of Macerata, there is frustingo – known as bostrengo in Pesaro – an ancient Christmas cake made with dried figs from September, decorated and flavoured to taste with dried fruit, chocolate, coffee, rum or cinnamon. Finally, especially in the south of the region, one can sample Pizza di Natale: similar to bread but enriched with sugar and dried figs or sultanas, chocolate, nuts and citrus fruits.
The Marche is an abundant region, with deeply rooted traditions very much to the fore on occasions such as this. Christmas in Le Marche, then, is definitely a period not to be missed, and certainly to be thoroughly enjoyed: bon appetit!